Carburator for Series land rover

Here is good article about carburetors for landy series, this article is made by TerryAnn Wakeman for British Pacific website (see the comment about this).

=======================

QUESTION: What kinds of carburetors fit my 2.25 Land Rover engine?

REPLY: There are currently 5 carburetors commonly found on 2.25 Land Rovers:
Solex 1 barrel (with or without pre heater), stock fitment 1958-'67
Zenith 1 barrel (emission model or straight), stock fitment 1967-'85
Rochester BV 1 barrel (US after market) fitted to 215, 235 Chevy I-6, 1950's.
Weber 34ICH 1 barrel (after market replacement)
Weber 3236DGV 2 barrel (after market, similar to the 3234DMTL fitted as standard, 1985-'93 on 2.5L engines)

How to drive Land Rover

Learn how to drive a Land Rover Series... Big file, do not try if you are using dial up (more than 40 megs)

Enjoy...

Flood victims are still happy...

Liputan6.com, Jakarta: Menteri Koordinator Kesejahteraan Rakyat Aburizal Bakrie menyalahkan media massa yang telah membesar-besarkan bencana banjir yang melanda Jakarta dan sekitarnya. Sebab pada kenyataannya, jelas Aburizal, banyak pengungsi banjir yang masih dapat tersenyum. "Kalau kita lihat para korban itu masih ketawa. Jangan sampai dikondisikan seolah-olah dunia mau kiamat seperti yang televisi Anda (SCTV) katakan demikian," kata Aburizal di Jakarta, Selasa (6/2).

That's what he said during interview... Now... can you imagine that someone who suppose to take care of the victims doesn't have the heart to help them. He is Menko Kesra for God shake and he take lightly on the tragedy that take away billions worth of money, disrupt everyday life, drown down valuable belongings, and it takes life too. How on earth he indicate that flood victims is happy?? I just can not imagine that we have a leader with this kind of mentality.

So Your honor Mr. Menko Kesra Aburizal Bakrie ,

I know that you are busy and have no time visit all the flood victims but probably you have visited the "happy" victims which take hotels as their temporary shelter. Oh ya I can see they are happy there... fair enough...

I also know that you are related to a company that drowned down villages in East Java, with the hot mud that the company produce. Are they received fair payment for their lost belonging yet? Oh never mind... they are smiling too... they must have the happiest day in their live, they can play with the (hot) mud as much as they want in the rest their lives....

I also know that you are one of the Indonesian conglomerate that have a lot of company under your supervision, one of the richest man in this country... I am sure you have more warm and cozy room in
your house that this flood can not reach... OK I see... I can understand if you smile and laugh, seeing that more than 60% of the Jakarta is under water... Good on you Mr. Menko Kesra.... Mr. Aburizal Bakrie...

What is Menko Kesra Position to you? As your public relation, so others see you helping people without actually spending money from your hard earned cash? I hope it is not, I hope you take the position because you genuinely want and have vision to help people... but if it is Yes... Very-very smart move indeed, good for your business...

Mr. Aburizal Bakrie as one of Indonesian citizen, it is really a shame to have you as one of my leader. but who am I anyway, if you have no empathy or do not really care about thousands or may be millions of Indonesian people, why you care about me...

Body Uplift...

I always wanted to uplift the series land rover, especially during rainy season like now, it looks cool too. I have spare body lift shackle (anting) from one of my friend who no longer use it, so I wonder if it can replaced the standard shackle. I do not know what is the effect of lifting the body so I search from the internet and found out that :

Australian military is using a higher shackle on their fleet, but only on the 109 inch not on the 88 for the reason that it will hurt axle joint in longer term.

Knowing this information I confidently replace the standard shackle in Sotong (109 LWB) with the longer one here is the picts:

Tinting windows...

I got this from d-90 source so go to the site if you want to know the original post. I think this would be a benefit to us who want to tint our windows

===================
Cheap window tint blocks light, but not much heat. Most heat from the sun comes from the near-infared spectrum (~52%). Some from the visible spectrum--which you do NOT want to block 'cause you gotta see out--and a little from UV. So the glass or applied film or coating must block the IR. Otherwise window tint is nothing more than darkening your windows making them hard to see out. Windows, window film & coatings should be rated. Check for these ratings before buying to be sure your time and money will work for you yet not hurt your eyes.

Tvis= visible transmittance. % of visible light that makes it through. Want high, like >70%.

SC=Shading coefficient (similar is SHGC). ratio of solar transmission to the tranmission through a 1/8" clear glass. Want this low, as this will keep out solar heat load.

Ke=emissivity or visible light transmission while rejecting solar heat--you want this number high to allow light in and easy to see out of at night. near 2 is great.

r or u=insulative value--temp. diff. b/w two sides of a window. Not as important as solar heat load control, as above.

Cheap tint is of little to no help to keep heat out. Good tint or coatings should list these values.

KC
====

As for me, solar guard is relatively good one

Crossing the flood par de deux

Now, when you (and your landy) is in the middle of flooded area, and the engine is dead.... what you will do... for me is easy... just call some locals (mostly kids) and ask them to push your landy. And you have a rear bio fuel PTO runs using rice he he... anyway PTO stand for Pakai Tenaga Orang (Man Powered Engine) not Power Take Off... I did just that... everyone in the car is happy, and they have (big) toy to play and push... of course couple of dollar will greatly enhance their fun. Look at these overgrown kid inside the landy, they have a good fun too... can you see the Rear PTO at the back?... :-). Click the picture to see the bigger one.

After we pushed the landy to "dry-land", I inspected the Landy and attempt to fix things, but it need tools beyond the one I carried, Can you imagine that the water is inside everything... in the engine, fuel tank, carburetter, gear box, anywhere... It is time for the plan B... So I went to the Garage to pick up Sotong, bring two mechanics, more tools and towing wire just in case we need to tow Bumbum . but the mechanics say we can do some kind of CPR to brought it back to life. So three of us try to flush any water in Bumbums vital organ such as engine head, carburetter, distributor, fuel filter etc, since we can not flush the fuel tank, we use jerry can attached to the mirror and re route the pipe to jerry can instead of fuel tanks. After about 2-3 hours fiddling, we finally bring bumbum back to life again... it cough, spits, pee but the engine beat stating to normal again after few minutes.

We aware that it is only half of the task, so we bring bumbum to garage and do extensive cleaning, and changing all oils.... which cost me about US$35 just for the man hour fee, not include the oils and other bit of pieces which I am about to change anyway. When you change the oil, make sure that you change it with cheap oil first, because no matter how good you clean the engine, there will be water left in the engine, so after our cheap oil turn into milk like liquid, change it with the regular oil that you usually use.

So I decided to let Bumbum rest for one day and use Sotong for the third day.

In this third day I play save, just cross the water only if Kijang could do it, in the third day I saw a man floated in the river (dead).. it is too graphic to post it in here but if you happen to know the person in the his Id Card picture (click for bigger picture) please let his family know. as for crossing the flood, I will never do it again for the second time unless absolute necessary !!!

Crossing the flood...

Jakarta has been flooded for few days, started in Friday 02-02-07 till now as the time of I am writing this... anyway this is my story of crossing the flood. But before I said anything, it is important to say that I am fully aware of my Landy limitation, it is a matter of a decision on why I have to do it.

Day one... Friday 02-o2-07

14 hour of continuous heavy rain since yesterday evening not yet about to stop, the weather look even gloomier than yesterday, ominous cloud is hanging above Jakarta, traffic jammed everywhere, and the rivers can no longer hold water inside.. the water start to flood the road... me in the office high up at 17th fl, start to take few pictures from above and down to the flooded main road (Casablanca and Sudirman in front of Atmajaya) here is the picts:



Day two Saturday 03-02-07

Last night, traffic is very bad because of flooded area in front of Atmajaya. as you see in the picture above. one of my colleague actually has to spend about 5 hours just to go to Kebun Jeruk from Sudirman. I got a call from my friend that he has to move from his house and stay in his friend, since I also want to take pictures in the flooded area, I ask him to join me " photo hunting", this time Bum-bum (my short Landy) will be the vehicle..., but taking no chance, I make sure that Sotong, is also healthy, just in case we need it to pull bum-bum. I park sotong in my friend's garage which open in that day, I make sure that there are mechanics available if I need them, because we plan to cross the flood deeper than my knee to get the pictures.

Bringing few tools needed for fixing things just in case, camera, clothes etc, all set and we heading to greenvillage... first cross is Atmajaya.....



After successfully crossing few more flooded area (the deepest is up to around 1 meter) and bumbum successfully managed to crossed without any hiccup and we take a lot of pictures, my friend start to wonder... how high can Bumbum go... in crossing the flood. I said, it is up to its tire, if you can not see the tire, than you really have to worry. it means we go beyond what it is intended.

Now my friend start talking weird questions, can it go until it dead without making any harmful effect to the engine? (he may be referring to the hammer effect when the engine full of water)... I said yes it is possible, this land rover naturally have "fuse", it goes dead before water get inside the engine unless the ignition has been modified to be electronic one. But generally, after that crossing, we need to change all oils in the engine, gearbox, axle, etc. in fact I have to change the oil in the axle after this photo hunting.

I do not know what in his mind but he challenge me to cross the flood until it dead, and will bear some of the cost, for my part it is very interesting since I also want to know at which point bumbum is actually giving up since I have to change the oil anyway. To make sure that the "fuse" is OK, I check that the distributor is not water proof.

Two of his (girl) friends is joining even though they know that big probability the engine is dead in the middle of the flood. So the quest now is "evacuate one of the friend who live deeper in the greenvillage". Which of course this heroic (or stupid is more appropriate) action is not successful, bumbum choked and dead in the middle of the journey after the water reach the distributor as expected.

First entry....

At half tire


Going deeper and deeper...


and this is the point where Bumbum choked dead... (can you see the oil indicator light? it means the engine stops) I can't blame him...


As this is already expected and we prepare for the remedy, we don't panic, in fact we all have a good laugh.... how we get out from this situation...? I will write more tommorow

Cheers

Double De clutch land rover series 2,2A

I owned a series 2, 2A Land Rover called bum-bum that I bought it January last month. Unlike my series III which has all syncromesh in all gear, series 2 and 2a do not have syncromesh in its first, second and reverse. any attemp to shift into these gear will produce a crunching sounds which is not healty for the landy. I am trying to find in the internet on how we can changing gear correctly and found this tutorial.

the actual link is in here :http://members.ozemail.com.au/~mikeleys/
and here is the actual content :

=========================

How to use your non-synchro gearbox.
The Problem.
You have just climbed into your "new" Series I, II or IIa and you have been told that the gearbox does not have synchromesh on first or second gear. Not knowing what to do, you start the old girl up, go to put it into first (or reverse) and are greeted by a small crunch. You get over this and move off in first. You move the lever to second and are greeted by another even bigger crunch. The change up to third is uneventful as is the change into top but when you try to change back into second, you are shocked by the crunch that results. What to do? How do you handle this tractor gearbox without destroying it?

First I should say that these gearboxes are very strong but they are not indestructible so some attempt at using correct gear changing technique is recommended if you and your gearbox are to be friends for some time. What follows is a detailed description of "double shuffling or double de clutching" These are the techniques necessary to achieve quiet gear changes and long life from your gearbox.

The basic problem is that your gearbox has no synchromesh on first, second or reverse gears. Modern gearboxes like the R380 have synchro on all gears including reverse so that anytime you change gears, the teeth will not grind as the gears which are trying to mesh have been "synchronised" or made to turn at the same speed to that when they engage, there will not be any speed difference between them and they will just slide quietly together. In your Land Rover, this only happens on third and forth gears.

How do you do it?
The First - Reverse Problem
When you first start the engine, depress the clutch and select first or reverse (or second for that matter), you may be greeted by a grating of gears. This is because the engine is spinning the front part of the gearbox but the part connected to the wheels is stationary. When you depress the clutch, the front part of the gearbox (the primary pinion, constant gears and layshaft)be disconnectedd from the engine and start to slow down and will eventually stop. If the oil in the gearbox is hot, this will take some time and if you attempt to select an un-synchronised gear (1,2,R), the spinning gears will meet the stationary gears and result in a crunch. The simple solution to this is to always select ( or at least part select) 3rd or 4th gears so that the synchromesh will stop the moving gears and then select the desired gear. If you still get a crunch, your clutch is not fully disengaging.
Normal gear changing
Changing up.This is the easy one. Put simply, you need to do some extra clutch work to get a smooth change. You need to take your foot off the clutch while the lever is in neutral and then put it back on while moving the lever to second.

1. Accelerate to about 10 - 15mph in first gear.
2. Depress the clutch and move the lever to neutral.
3. Allow the engine revs to fall so that the revs will match the road speed in second gear.
4. Depress the clutch and quickly engage 2nd gear.


That's it. You need to practice to get just the right delay at stage 3 and if you fluff it and get a hand full of teeth, you may have to engage neutral, gently blip the throttle with the clutch out and then depress the clutch again and engage 2nd. If you need to blip the throttle, you have waited too long at stage 3.

Changing Down

This is more of a challenge and depends to some extent on your ability to gauge the right amount of rev increase (blip) to give the engine during the change.

1. Slow to about 20mph in third gear. (Later you can try other speeds)
2. Depress the clutch, move the lever to neutral
3. Blip the throttle
4. Depress the clutch and immediately select 2nd gear. The success of the gearchangee will depend on your getting the blip right.

The higher the road speed, the bigger the blip.

That's it.

Once you get those two changes under control, you are ready to try the 4th to 2nd and the 2nd to first. Both are quite easy but the 4-2 change needs a bigger blip. You can also change up and down from high to Low transfer too using the same technique but here, the revs must be doubled (changing down) or halved (changing up).

Have fun getting it right. It takes a while but is quite easy with a little practice.

Michael